Across the wide Atlantic in a place called County Cork, Mary Burns has been making Ardrahan Farmstead Cheese for the past 30 years. Ardrahan, the pride of the Burns family and one of the great Irish cheeses, feels traditional, like a common lullaby or a national dish. Its friendly coating of rusty-orange B. linens creates a mild pungency—think aromas of barnyard and gym socks—while underneath lies a buttery, meaty paste evoking milk from happy cows and summer days spent skipping stones at the seashore.